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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.