Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
